GUIDES
If you are looking for an easy but still exciting route we have something for you. A cycle path that goes along Adige river will take you on a fantastic tour through apple orchards, picturesque villages and spectacular mountain views.
- Route for beginners and advanced
- Drinkable water fountains on the path (every 10 km max)
When: best in spring or autumn, snow in winter and heat during summer.
Bicycles: all bikes, great for road bikes (tarmac almost all the way)
Day 1
- 0 km – Starting from Trento
- 9 km – Leaving the city
- 65 km – Lunch on the road
- 67 km – Reaching Bolzano
- 76 km – Arriving in Andriano (end of the day)
We left Trento late in the morning. It was our first day so we had no intention in pushing it. We haven’t even thought of how far to go. Our goal for the day was just to enjoy the road and its surrounding: the cycle path follows Adige river all the way up to its source passing through Trento, Bolzano and Merano. We cruised at an average speed of 20kph.
From Trento to Bolzano there are 60 km of cycle path fully in tarmac not shared with cars. It’s a road cyclists paradise that sees many other bike lovers from MTB to Dutch bikes.
First 20 km went fast: during the first hour we stopped only once to fill up our bottles. As it gets really hot in summer is important to have always some water with you. In this cycle path you’ll find fountains with fresh water (straight from the mountains) every 5-10km, so there’s nothing to worry about.
We reached Laives, a little town just before Bolzano, around 2pm. When you are travelling long distances with your bicycle big cities are something you’d try to avoid: they are noisy, chaotic and stressful. We didn’t want to lose the good mood we were in so we skipped Bolzano. It’s worth saying we both have been there many times so if you haven’t you probably should. It will add just 5 or 10 km to the trip.
In the afternoon we experienced the real heat. It forced us to stop just a few kilometres after Laives by a pond where fishermen gather together during the hottest hours. We were exhausted mostly from the heat than the actual ride.
We finally had lunch: nothing is better than beans, bread, salad and some chocolate after a long ride. That’s why I love these trips: your instincts overrule good manners and you don’t care anymore what you are eating, how or where you are. It only matters to refill your energy.
After one hour we were again on our bikes.
On the proximity of Bolzano the cycle path splits into two: one goes into the city (taking the right just after crossing the bridge), the other one keeps following the river towards Merano (on the left side).
Here the route became more interesting: apple orchards are still present but trees along the river give the impression of being in a wilder nature.
The day was coming to an end. So we figured to stop in Andriano, a little town between Bolzano and Merano, for the night.
We were in Alto Adige which, the only part of Italy where German is the first language, people still understand and speak Italian but there’s something odd in the way they do it so me and a friend (both Italians) started speaking in english instead.
When I think about this kind of trip I find it very fascinating, I mean the fact that on the same day we went through two different realities, cultures and languages just by pushing on our pedals’ bike.
Day 2
- 76 km – Leaving from Andriano
- 99 km – Coffee break in Merano
- 106 km – Lunch
- 133 km – Arriving in Silandro, end of the day
We woke up too late for bike touring standards, but earlier than the day before anyway.
The first thing we looked for was coffee of course. Not far from where we camped we found a coffee shop with lots of cakes and outside chairs (yes it was nice and sunny). We sat down, ordered a massive piece of cake (each) and an expensive coffee that tasted like dirty hot water, welcome to Germany!
Twenty kilometres later we reached Merano. It’s a really nice town surrounded by mountains, a crystal clear river and spacious city squares. Here it does really feel like we are closer to mountains peaks.
I forgot to brink with me a t-shirt for the night so I went shopping in the city centre while my friend a had ice cream in one of the numerous kiosks. Before leaving the city we also stopped at a supermarket to buy some food for lunch.
As soon as we left the city climbs started. At first it just was a gently going up that quickly turned into a more aggressive climb touching 11% gradient. Considering how busy this path can get this is really not a peaceful climb.
We stopped half way through the climb: the heat was making even breathing unbearable and the people contribueted to that suffucanting feeling. The good news is that the more you go up in the mountains the more streams you’ll find. There’s always a chance to get fresh water from a fountain and to wash your face.
We were now at our 30th kilometre of the day and at 106 km from Trento with 516 m altitude.
After lunch going up was much easier, after few turns the path stayed on the some gradient for many more kilometres. Here we went fast: 29 kph as average speed. In very little time we were already close to Silandro, the town where we planned to stop for the night.
On the way we saw the road that goes straight up in the mountains and cross the Stelvio Pass. We were temped to give it a try but considering its 1.700m climb within 25km for a top high of 2,757 m pass we opted for not going. Maybe another time, with different bikes, time and legs.
As for the night we spotted a “green area” on the map. It was just at the end of apple orchards and still not far from the cycle path. The spot was better than we expected: a picnic table and some big stones placed in circle where people could make a fire, clearly indicated it would have been okay for us to camp there. The land elevated for 10 or 20 meters from the orchards below, just enough to have a clean view towards the valley.
In the morning I say Hi to the new day while doing Tai Chi. Who could have ask for a better setting?
Day 3
- 133 km – Starting from Silandro
- 164 km – Lunch break in Mals
- 168 km – Cycling through Burgeis
- 173 km – San Valentino della Muta lake
- 185 km – Camping in Resia
This was our last day of the trip and by far the most spectacular.
Starting at 770 m of altitude we reached the 1500 m of Resia Lake by afternoon. Apple orchards left for a more mountain nature environment with forests with a trees, rivers, villages and lakes.
The cycle path goes through the forest at this point so for the first time in two days we left the tarmac road for some gravel.
It was just for few kilometres so road bikes are good to go too.
The route continue through Mals (Malles Venosta), a village that seemed to welcome a new type of landscape, more mountaineer I would say. With its 1000 m a.s.l. we really needed to start pushing on our legs, especially to make it to the city centre, which is at the end of a steep climb.
It was almost lunch-time so we bought anything could appeal to our stomach at a local supermarket and eat it in the main square (something I would have felt uncomfortable to do in Italy but there it was alright, like we moved deeper into nature).
Burgeis (Burgusio), next town on our route, wasn’t more than few kilometres from Mals. What worried me though was the climb! From the 1000 m a.s.l. in Mals the road gain 500 metres in elevation in less than 10 kilometres. We had to be ready for that, I mean fully ready, and so we had coffee (while our phones and power banks were recharging), ice cream and oil (this for my bike’s chain not for us: it was important we would all feel great).
We were ready to go but at 3pm the sun was shining high and so still very hot to cycle. As we wanted to have the option to stop and rest along the way if needed we decided not to wait any longer and go for the climb.
For the first time (since we started in Trento) the cycle path dedicated for bicycles ends. We had to share the main road with cars and lorries. I was a bit worried because Marghe, my cycling friend, didn’t have much experience in busy roads out of town, so I kept turning my head backwards checking how she was doing. But she was fine: she went all the way up without problems (but I did spotter her tongue out a couple of times on this climb).
From Burgeis, which because of the steep climbs seem builded vertically rather than horizontally, started the real magic: a little path (designed for bicycles only) connect this little town to the lakes, San Valentino alla Muta first and Resia after.
This path has a constant view of beautiful fields, wild flowers and mountains peaks. Welcome to the mountain fairy tales!
Such a surprise when we arrived in the first lake. That meant we had climbed already the deepest section reaching almost 1500 metres!
The landscape was so incredible that we both felt the desire to cycle more as pushed by a powerful force to discover more.
Then we stopped, had a quick picnic with fruits and nuts. I flown my drone for the very first time since the trip started. I wanted to experience life on the road without the distraction of filming, that’s why I didn’t use it before but this time I couldn’t really back up from this stunning view.
We continued cycling to Resia lake, that differently from San Valentino della Muta is an artificial lake. We were flying on the brand new tarmac of the cycle path: it goes all around the lake, which is massive, and sometimes (on the left shore of the lake) there are even different paths set on different altitudes you can take.
We stopped just before reaching Resia town. Picnic benches with a stunning view of the lake invited us to have dinner there and we figured we could camp there too.
The next morning we had breakfast in town. We were on the border with Austria and although the landscape was so incredible to feel unreal it was the bad quality of coffee to bring in reality again: we were not in Italy anymore.
We choose to do this trip in three days, wild camping every night, but you don’t have to. Trains and buses run all the time so you can do just one section and then head back to where you started. Or do the three full days but sleep on comfy beds in hotels instead of camping. It’s up to you. You should be the one and only one deciding which type of adventure suit you the most, I’m only here to inspire you with options. But now you know, it is possibile. So whatever you choose take your bike and ride!
